Choose a "survival" knife that will last a lifetime
How to choose: folding or fixed knife ?
Whatever happens with the same quality of manufacture, a fixed knife will always be stronger than a folding knife (although my folding knives are stronger than almost all the folding knives on the market (test video on the home page) with a foolproof locking system).
A folding knife is easier to store in your pocket or to hide because it's shorter when folded, no need for a sheath so it's less bulky.
A fixed-blade knife will offer maximum durability and better force transmission (whittling, heavy-duty work).
The choice depends on your primary use: extended outdoor exploration (fixed blade) or urban/multi-purpose EDC (folding).
A survival knife must be multifunctional, suitable for outdoor activities in the wilderness as well as in urban environments; it must be sharp and feature an ice/glass breaker. It must be capable of cutting food, skinning an animal, and setting traps. It must also be able to cut a taut climbing rope, be used as a baton, split wood for a campfire, and, in the worst-case scenario, serve as a crowbar to dig holes. Designed to withstand the harshest conditions (moisture, cold, impact)
Which steel to choose and especially which steel I prefer ?
Over time and through experience, I have selected the steels that, in my opinion, offer the best qualities. Now I work exclusively with high-end steels from Austria and Sweden. These are high-alloy steels: RWL34 PM (powder metallurgy), N690 Cobalt, and Elmax PM (powder metallurgy) for stainless steels. Vanadis 4 Extra and Sleipner for tool steels.
The tools steels
Let's not beat around the bush, the tool steels (Elmax, Sleipner, Vanadis) are far superior mechanically to the so-called "carbon" steels (like 1095, xc75, 80CRV2) and damascus which has only for interest nowadays to have a "nice" visual rendering (and it remains relative on the "nice", it was nice 500 years ago but we are in 2020 now > article on this subject. )
Tool steels are more resistant to corrosion than carbon steels.
At sufficient thickness (between 4 to 6mm) they are indestructible on daily tasks, bushcraft or survival.
Once heat treated, these steels are used in the industry to make tools (hence their name) to cut other materials such as aluminum, copper, brass, titanium, alloys and even other steels.
Their only small concern is that they are not stainless except for Elmax, which is indeed rust-resistant and require to be stored in dry environments or at least be lightly lubricated with mineral oil, WD40 and Ballistol if used for food purposes.
Here are some tests I have done:
High alloy Stainless steels
Elmax-PM steel, RWL34PM (powder metallurgy), and N690Cobalt are stainless steels, so they don’t rust and are therefore ideal for damp, rainy environments. However, some people consider them to have a slight drawback: they take a little longer to sharpen. Personally, I don’t notice any difference if you use a good ceramic or diamond whetstone. Thanks to powder metallurgy technology, Elmax-PM, RWL34PM, and Vanadis 4 Extra can achieve ultra-fine edges, much finer than standard steels.
Choosing the handle for your knife
The handle must be made from extremely resistant and rot-proof materials such as micarta or G10, they do not fear heat, cold or water and require no maintenance.
I craft each handle to be perfectly ergonomic, and I add toxifications (deep texturing upon request)to improve grip even when wet.
For a knife intended for emergency situations, we avoid wood (even stabilized) which is a more fragile material that can move over time due to humidity and temperature.
Choosing a knife sheath
Protection That Matches the Blade. So you need a sturdy sheath that can withstand water and cold, and requires no maintenance. That’s why I make them out of Kydex, which combines all these advantages, with leather loops and TechLock to increase carrying options. They are custom-made.
Here’s an article that goes into more details about the benefits of Kydex sheaths. ( Read more )
Finger choil or not?
it's a choice that is clearly based on personal taste.
Personally I like to have them on the big blades, around the 30-35 cm length to have the possibility of a closer grip for the fine work.
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Conclusion: A Knife That Becomes a Partner.
A good custom survival knife isn’t just a tool. it’s an investment in your safety and peace of mind, whether you’re out in nature or in the city. If you’re looking for a blade crafted to the highest standards, feel free to contact me for a custom project. Contact: sashakrauserknives@gmail.com
